One of the things I loved the most in Begur, is that you can walk from coves and small creeks following the coastal path. The coastal footpath is called, Camí de Ronda, these paths used to follow all the coast and were used by tobacco smugglers and also fishermen to avoid being discovered. It was a safe route that winds around the coast through narrow streets, private houses, little bays, beach sand, and stone stairs up and down the hills. It is perfect to discover Costa brava's coast and enjoy every step discovering new places.
Nowadays they are used as the access to the beach and also a great walk following the coast, I totally recommended. The paths are not difficult to walk, so you can even do it carrying your towel and in flip flops, at least some parts.
Camí de Ronda: Coastal path in Begur
The coastal path has around 20km, but it is divided in 4 parts, it is a discontinued path along the coast. From north to south, the first part starts at Platja del Racó and finishes at Sa Riera. The second one starts at Sa riera and finishes on the amazing cliffs very characteristic of Costa Brava. The third path connects Aiguafreda beach with Sa Tuna beach.
It is easy to follow the coastal path, it indicates you where you need to walk with white and red stripes during the path, you can find the signs in the walls or rocks during your walk. It might be indicated as well as a GR path (that stands for "gran recorregut" in Catalan, with means great routes).
We walked one of these "camins de ronda", the one from Fornells to Platja d'Aiguablava, I loved it, you discover little cales that are perfect if you want to be in a calm and lovely place.
Depending on the time you have and what you want to see you can choose one route or another one:
1-Coastal path Sa Riera - Illa Roja - Platja del Racó - Illa Roja - Sa Riera (1h 30min, 1'6km)
2-Coastal path Sa Riera - Punta de la creu - Sa Riera (1h, 3km)
3-Coastal path Aiguafreda - Sa Tuna - Aiguafreda (40min, 2, 25km)
4-Coastal path Aiguablava - Fornells - Platja Fonda - Fornells - Aiguablava (2h, 2, 5km)
Aiguablava to Fornells (4)
We started from the door of our Hotel Eetu near Aiguablava beach and started walking in the direction to the beach to start the cami de ronda. The path takes you across the town, then go down to the sand and some steps up the hill. There are parts you even go through parts where there are private houses around so it is a full adventure. Take enough time to do the go and return with daylight as the path is beautiful but not all the parts might be illuminated at night, so don't risk it.
Aiguablava is the best beach in Begur for me, amazing greenish water crystal clear and white sand. There are also bars and restaurants around so it is quite convenient.
Cala Fonda, the beach has this greenish color so particular from the area, this beach is down the hill do you need to go down quite a lot of stairs. The sweat is worth it, the water covers you very fast the moment you get in the sea. The path is beautiful all the way to Aiguablava, you can see little bays with no sand in it, but more a pebble kind of beach, but they are less crowded and less known as well, so take advantage of it and do a stop to refresh in these "cales" as we call them.
Fornells in the south has small creeks and you can reach those such as Ses Orats, Malaret and the Port Esclanyà. These caves do not have fine sand if this is what you are looking for, but the water is just amazing.
Right after Cala Malaret is my favorite part of the path, you have to go through some stone tunnels to get to Port Esclanyà or Cala Tries as it also known by this name. You can see the landscape from above of the tunnel overlooking Cala Tries. It is a magical path and you can imagine how the smugglers were going through this path at their time.
While going through the camí de ronda you are going to bump into this spectacular swimming pool that belongs to the apartments Es Cau. If you are not staying with them you can't access, is private property and security is watching it. Would be nice to just jump on it once you get there in your walk through the cami de ronda.
How to get to Begur?
My advice is to get your own transportation, we arrived by car, coming with the motorbike is not a bad idea either. Having your own transportation comes with advantages, and you can come and go whenever you want. There are beautiful towns near Begur so it will be easier to get there.
If you prefer public transport, you can get to Begur by bus with Sarafa, they have buses coming from Girona and Barcelona.